Montmartre is an arrondissement full of contrasts, from the crowded steps of Sacré Cœur and the famous Moulin Rogue where you’ll zig-zag through tourists, to the quiet alleys off Pigalle where the same falafel guy will greet you with a smile every time you walk past his corner. My friend Vivienne and I stayed in the most charming apartment in the midst of it all, and could not have asked for a better base for our Paris adventures.

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